Here at Blue Horse, the coffee has always been our focus. As a lot of you long-time customers know, we tried a lot of different roasters before choosing Counter Culture Coffee as our supplier. Simply put, we’ve always felt that Counter Culture is the best, light roast to dark roast, regular and decaf. Roasting coffee really is both art and science. A truly fine roaster understands the beans, the interaction among heat and bean and cup, and how to bring out the best from each coffee.
Coffee drinkers like different kinds of tastes in their cups. It’s like any other food or drink in this world. Some people like vanilla ice cream (and all the varieties there are within the vanilla world), some people like chocolate (and all the varieties within the chocolate world). Well, it’s no surprise that some people like a light-roasted Kenyan coffee, some people like a medium-roasted Mexican coffee, some people like a dark French roast coffee. Notice, there was no attribution of origin for the French roast. So much of the time, when somebody orders a French roast coffee someplace, there is no origin associated with it; it’s often some blend or lesser bean roasted dark, without a lot of respect given to it. Well, there’s no good reason that a coffee that is dark-roasted should be treated like the red-headed stepchild of the coffee world (I’ve got nothing against red-headed stepchildren, it’s just a saying). In our view, coffee drinkers deserve the best of whatever kind of coffee they prefer.
Counter Culture thinks that, too. That’s why they work directly with Roberto Salazar, a third-generation coffee farmer in Honduras, in sourcing the excellent coffee for our French roast.
Dark-roasting a coffee, properly, takes a lot of skill and understanding. Here’s some insight from Peter Giuliano, the master roaster at Counter Culture: “Creating a great French Roast is a challenge: it takes skill and real craftsmanship to bring the roast to mahogany darkness without scorching, and keep the natural sweetness of the coffee intact. One often overlooked secret to creating a great French roast, however, is to start with superb green coffee. Of particular importance is the coffee’s hardness: dense, strong coffee withstands the trying dark-roast process much better than more delicate coffees, and so the best French Roasts come from high altitude, healthy, vigorous farms.
In 2003, while visiting Honduras for that year’s coffee tasting contest, I tasted such a coffee. Solid as a rock, this coffee was built to roast. It had a dense body, sweet acidity, and pure coffee flavor. Later, I met the farmer, Mr. Roberto Salazar from Ocotepeque, and made plans to visit his farm. The next day we started on the long drive to Ocotepeque, on the northwest border of Honduras, near Guatemala. Finally, we reached Finca Pashapa, which was like arriving in a forest paradise. I’ll never forget walking into the farm—it felt almost like entering a giant, green, airy room. The towering shade trees formed a perfect canopy, covering the carpet of coffee trees below. Birds darted between the canopy and the trees, and soared around the trunks of the trees holding up the “ceiling,” where green leaves let a bit of dappled sunlight through. The farm was pristine and beautiful. As Roberto continued his tour around his farm, he explained his commitment to organic agriculture, and showed us his earthworm compost station, which remains the most impressive I have ever seen at a coffee farm. The high altitude of the farm (more than 4,000 feet above sea level), dense shade, and conscientious farm management are what create a phenomenal “hard bean” coffee, perfect for rigorous roasting.
That year, we bought our first lot from Finca Pashapa. It has been our pleasure and honor to roast Mr. Salazar’s coffee every year since. Roberto is heir to a rich coffee tradition: his grandparents founded Finca Pashapa 42 years ago, and produced the first washed coffee in the region! It is a stellar coffee and an interesting story, way too good to be hidden behind the anonymity of simply ‘French Roast.’
So this year, for the first time, we will be selling the first farm-specific French Roast we have ever heard of. We’re extremely proud of this coffee—it is sweet and complex, never ashy or hollow the way lesser French Roasts can be. Dark roasting lends a particular bittersweet character to the coffee, bringing to mind a 70 percent dark chocolate. Thanks to Mr. Salazar and our crack roasting staff, I am confident this is the most delicious French Roast on the planet.”
So, Blue Horse people, if you enjoy a truly fine dark-roast in your cup, please come in for our Certified Organic, Shade-Grown, French roast – Finca Pashapa, grown and harvested by Roberto Salazar in Honduras, roasted by Counter Culture Coffee in North Carolina, and offered directly to you by Blue Horse Coffee in Mt. Lebanon.
Recent Comments